Biking the Empire Trail-Albany to The Bronx

After talking about biking the New York Empire Trail for a while, Janet and I finally decided on a 4 day ride from Albany to New York City through the Hudson Valley. Most of the route is on some amazing dedicated off-road bike paths and the rest is mostly country roads. Ride totaled in at just under 200 miles. Originally we planned to drive to Albany, park the car, and Amtrak back at the end of the ride. It ended more complicated, but we did manage to pull off it off...

• Day 1 Albany To Hudson

  
  
  
  
  

  

  

We spent the night in Albany near the Amtrak station and started the ride the next morning. We found a bike route sign and followed it. It was an amazing rolling country road that hugged the Hudson. Nearly 20 miles into the ride in the town of Stuyvesant, we discovered that the 9 route was not actually the Empire State Trail but the Hudson Valley Greenway Route. To get back on track, we got on Country Road 26 and headed through farm country to connect with the Empire State Trail in Kinderhook.

An issue during the tour was the milage between services. By the time we had connected with the Empire State Trail in Kinderhook, we had put in nearly 25 miles. As luck would have it, Del's Roadside was near the the trail. While they do have burgers, I opted for the strawberry shortcake sundae. After loading up with sugar, we got on our bikes and started on the Hudson Electric Trail section. It is a 36 mile paved path build on the corridor formally used by an electric trolley line. Amazing. We got into the town of Hudson around 3pm and checked into the Howard Hotel. Upscale place in a upscale town. Had a nice diner at Savona's and called it a day. Overall good first day.

Day 2- Hudson to New Paltz

The weather forecast for the day was not good. Rain, thunderstorms, and strong winds. It was only grey and windy when we started a 32-mile segment on hilly country roads through farm country. Highlight was Janet performing a rescue on a giant snapping turtle that was crossing the road. 13 miles in we stopped at Otto's market in Germantown for second coffee and notice the area was under tornado watch. Did not have much choice but to power ahead. At around 20 miles, the route passes through Bard College. Fancy campus with a very cool-looking performing arts center. My guess is that tuition is expensive. By mile 30, strong headwinds and navigation errors were taking a toll. We needed food. At the end of Poet's Walk Park, a farm stand thankfully appeared. I thought about a block of cheese but settled on a granola bar and chocolate milk.

After a welcome break, it was time to cross the Kingston-Rinecliff Bridge. This is the worst part of the ride. Long span with a narrow shoulder with only a white line separating riders from speeding trucks. To make matter worse there was a strong crosswind, and the road surface was scattered with lots of broken glass. This really needs to be fixed. After the bridge, it was a short ride into Kingston. After 40 miles of tough riding, we stopped for lunch at the Cornell. Decent burger.

After lunch we road through Kingston and connected to the Wallkill Valley Rail Trail. It is a scenic 22-mile unpaved trail through the woods and was my favorite section of the entire ride. Lots of reminders that the area was once one of the largest producers of hydraulic cement . Rain started just as we made our way over the Rosendale Trestle . It spans 940 feet, 150 feet above Rondout Creek. Amazing views. Ended the day climbing a big hill to get to our hotel. Guessing around 57 miles miles. Tough day.

Day 3 New Paltz to Brewster

Day started with a 7.1 mile stretch of the Hudson Valley Rail Trail that connects with WalkWay Over Hudson State Park. Well-maintained paved trail that has a nice park with food options just before the walkway. Crossing The Walkway Over the Hudson is the polar opposite experience of crossing the Kingston-Reincliff Bridge. Wide, car-free crossing with plenty of spots to enjoy views of the Hudson.

After the walkway, the trails follows an old rail line through the middle of nowhere. Lots of signs warning about ticks. The only services close to the trail for the next 37 miles is Hopewell Junction. We stopped at Franco's Italian Deli. Old school deli that makes good sandwiches. After lunch, it was a long grind up a slight exposed grade. Sunblock and water are required for this section. At a park about 10 miles out of Brewster, we meet a group of older riders that told us it was all downhill from here. While that was mostly true, getting to our hotel was another story. I read that Hedi's Inn was only 1.5 miles off the trail and getting there required climbing a hill. Turns out it is much more than a mile and a half, and the hill was a 500 foot climb. The good news is that Las Mananitas restaurant was next door to the hotel. They make guacamole at your table and have a wide selection of dishes. Two thumbs up. Day 3 was better than Day 2. Next stop, NYC.

Day 4 Brewster to the Bronx

The last day was all off-road on the Putnam Trailway and the Westchester North Country Trail. Nice wooded paved trails. At around 17 miles into the ride in Yorktown Heights, the Trail Side Cafe is just across the street from the trail. They have a wide selection of healthy smoothies, and it is a perfect rest stop. I of course opted for chocolate ice cream and In retrospect, it might not have been the best decision on a hot day with 35 more miles to go. Eventually the trail runs next to the Sawmill Parkway. Loud and exposed. Was hoping to get a club sandwich at one of the country clubs we passed but had to settle for Elmsford. Deli. Hole in the wall place with many options from the grill. Got a gyro and watched a little of a World Cup match.

After lunch, we were counting down the last 14 miles. Very nice trail through Van Cortlandt Park, and then it was about 3 miles of city streets. Mixed bag from super hairy to bike friendly. Full Bronx experience. We finished just past the little Italy of the Bronx, Arthur Ave. Many good choices for dinner. We picked Ajo y Oregano. A Dominican place that made the New York Times top 100. I went with shrimp mofongo and a smoked pork chop. Very good. Other than the section next to the Sawmill Parkway, nice day of riding to finish the tour.

Lessons from the Tour

While Janet and I have done a bunch of tours, the goal is to make the next one better. We might just be getting old, but we both are looking to be more comfortable on the bikes. Ours have traditional flat handlebars, and we are looking at alt bars that have more rise and sweep. This should let us ride more upright and take the pressure off our necks and wrists. Also need an attachment to hold my phone to the handle bars. It never fails that signs are missing at critical spots, and this would help catch it before getting too far off course. Finally, need to carry more water and snacks. Not fun grinding out miles dreaming of a drink of water. Starting to think about a tour next summer, and Buffalo to Albany is a possibility.